Where Black River Meets Amazing!

I have many favorite places in Southeast Missouri, but I can honestly say that Markham Springs in Williamsville Missouri is my absolute favorite destination.  Frequent guest blogger Aaron Jackson has written a great piece on the area and it will be posted on Wednesday.

The main reason I like Markham Springs is the river views.   I grew up near the southern portion of Black River, which is a truly black river that looks like a glorified ditch.  There is nothing special about this "river" and most people will speak of it passingly, if at all. However,  Black River in the southern Butler County and NE arkansas is completely different from the immaculate Black River of Wayne County.  It should not even be referred to Black River at all in this area.  No, it should be referred to as the blue or green hue river (I would issue a decree but my powers of persuasion and influence are tethered to the inner sanctum of my mind).  It is the most gorgeous hue of green (or blue depending on weather conditions and time of year) in Wayne County and it meanders the area like flowing poetry.  

The Eagle Bluff Trail, named because Chief Eagle and his tribe camped here during the trail of tear, is my favorite trail in all the world.  Perhaps it is my trail because it was the first real trail that I hiked when I started to enjoying hiking and the natural world.  It is also the most unkempt trail in Missouri, but the views of the river, the nearby hills, mountains, and valley make it worth the hassle.  

Simply Grand: Grand Gulf State Park (guest blog)

In my exploration of Ripley County, Missouri, I began to wonder what lay in her neighbouring counties such as Oregon County.  Today, I decided to venture out and discover.  I drove to Grand Gulf State Park outside of Thayer and was not in the least disappointed.
The small size of this state park makes it easily traversable.  Further boarded stairways with rails make it possible for almost everyone to enjoy the scenic beauty that this fine state park has to offer, and it is very fine indeed.

To the right of the parking and picnic areas is a walkway down to the overlook point of the Grand Gulf Sink — a collapsed cavern that now fills with rainwater to form a small pond of immense blue hues, resembling in some regards Blue Spring near Eminence, Missouri.  However, do not be fooled by the sink’s appearance.  The small pond can reach depths of up to 100 feet with heavy rains and water marks along the cliff walls clearly indicate her awesome potential.

A side trail leads to the Natural Bridge — a part of the cave that did not crumble for some reason and now forms a natural dolomite bridge over the sink hole and Shiloh Creek.  Were it not there, one would see a huge mass of water to his right that would be quite frightening in the wet season.  A 1-mile spur trail off this meanders along Shiloh Creek, offering close portraits of The Narrows, another small hole along the creek bed and the Natural Bridge.  However, it is not yet complete and dead-ends in the woods, forcing one to turn around and follow the same path back.  The path however is gravelled for the most part and marked with blue blazes.

Once back at the parking area, I ventured to the other side where the Grand Gulf Canyon trail leads one down 119 steps to an observation deck at the bottom of the canyon.  In wet months, this would be an awesome sight with the roar of thousands of gallons of water pouring down beside you into an opening that feeds Shiloh Creek below the falls.  However, the weather has been unseasonably dry, so there was not as much as a trickle, save a small spring jutting out from the side of the cliff near the observation deck.

This alone would have provided a nice exploration, but I was not satisfied.  I left the park and drove along Hwy W to my right, where it turns into a gravelled county road.  About ½ mile down, I noticed a dry creek bed and decided to park and explore.  This is where the fun truly began.
Dry paths of rock and gravel do not just appear in nature.  It takes the awesome force of swiftly flowing water to deposit such specimens for miles in such a uniform manner.  Where there is a creek and a canyon, there is a waterfall.  Though there was no water flowing on this day, I decided to follow Shiloh Creek above the falls and see if I could locate the source.  After a short walk of about ¾ miles that took me into thickets around fallen trees and over large dolomite and limestone boulders, I discovered the top of the canyon and the beautifully-carved, white rocks that are hidden beneath a torrent of water during the wet season.  It was truly a sight to behold!

I shall be returning someday to this beautiful state park and natural area for further exploration into the canyon and caverns.  I may even return during the wet season and sit above the waterfalls as the water rushes by and makes pure my soul.  I suggest to anyone within driving distance of Thayer, Missouri, to do the same.  You shall not be disappointed. -Aaron Jackson

To the Bat Cave, Or Not!

Allison of Ozark Highlands of Missouri blogged about the discovery of White Nose Syndrome being found in Missouri.

We're doomed.
White Nose Syndrome, a disease which causes mortality in cave-dwelling bat species has been discovered on a little brown bat in a privately owned cave in Pike County, Missouri. While the primary means of transmission of the disease is from bat-to-bat, live fungal spores have been documented from caving gear and in boot prints, suggesting the probability of humans serving as vectors for the disease, as well. 

It's time to close the caves in Missouri.  I know it will irritate the cavers and explorers, but it is time to take necessary measures.  Caves are more than deep dwellings beneath the ground; they are important ecosystems.  Bats are an important part of the cave world, if not for the science of things, than for being the ambassadors of the cave world.

suggested reading:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White_nose_syndrome

The Other Cape Girardeau

I should have been arrested for impersonating a southeast Missourian.  For years, I drove to Cape Girardeau (southeast Missouri culture mecca) for shopping and to eat at a restaurant not found in my home town/county.   I never went to downtown Cape and I actually thought the downtown area was the location of the restaurants, malls, and big box stores.   One day, I got lost and found myself looking at several beautiful murals on the Missouri wall of fame (the Cape Girardeau flood wall).  There was President Truman, George Washington Carver, Walter kronkrite

Guest Blog: Big Springs

Nestled in a hollow in the lower Missouri Ozarks (near the city of Van Buren) is one of the most popular recreational areas in the state and Missouri’s first state park: Big Springs. Big Springs is a favourite retreat for people from near and far.  They come to picnic, to hike and to partake of water sports; yet, mainly they come to stare at one of the largest springs in the world.


Big Spring is a natural spring with freshly-flowing blue water that appears like a blue-green lagoon as it forms a pond at the base of the spring and flows downstream to feed Current River via Sherman’s Creek.  The constant 58-degree temperature and shade from the mammoth chert bluff provide for a scenic and cool picnic area even during the excessively warm months of July through September.  The impressive flow of water through earthen caverns spews with such force that it is estimated that some 286 million gallons of water flow daily.  That is more than triple the amount of any other spring in the state, with the exception of Greer Spring.  It is truly a sight to behold!


However, this cosy state park offers even more than this, as if that were necessary.  There are several cabins offered for a reasonable price, allowing visitors to extend a day-trip into a weekend retreat.  River resorts in the city of Van Buren allow for canoeing, jet-skiing, floating, boating and fishing.  Trails and paved entry roads allow for hiking, horseback riding and mountain biking.  Camping is also widely available throughout the region.
On my most recent visit, I introduced two friends to the site, and we decided to hike.  There are several trails including the Big Spring Overlook Trail, Slough Trail, Chubb Hollow Trail and others.   Warning!  The trail leading above the spring to the ridgeline is very difficult for amateur hikers!  I am not certain if it is Big Spring Overlook Trail because neither end of the trail is marked with signage (though one end abuts the 1.2-mile Slough Trail at about one-third of the route along).  This trail rises at least 150 feet above the spring area with very steep points at either end and is well over two miles in length.  However, the entire trail is gravelled for easier walking.


The Slough Trail is a flat, wheelchair-accessible trail with its trailhead near the spring.  Along the path, signs detail the CCC’s efforts to build the state park (with original pictures and quotes).  The path ends at the Peavine Picnic Shelter.  The round-trip is 1.2 miles.  It was along this trail that we spotted two white-tailed does and several squirrels.
During the summer months particularly, one may access a few caverns and receive a guided interpretive tour of the partially-completed railroad tunnel left intact after it was abandoned in the late nineteenth century by a now defunct railroad company.


If one is very adventurous, like me, he or she may scale the rocks above the spring and climb one of two boulders overlooking the spring.  I did this safely inside of 15 minutes.  Once at the top, the view is impressive, though partially obscured by trees.  This point is perhaps 65 feet above the spring.  One must utilize his or her upper body strength and be prepared to plant on unstable earth.  This climb is not recommended for anyone save the fearless.


In short, there is something for everyone at the majestic Big Springs in Ozark National Scenic Riverways.  Whether you fancy a day on the water in Ozark National Scenic Riverways system or a day of hiking over the numerous trails that litter the region or simply a quaint, family picnic, Big Spring State Park is the place for you. 


-Aaron Jackson 

Blue Spring

I remember the first time I saw Blue Spring.  It was a time in my life when I did not enjoy hiking or even being outdoors.  The trail to the spring is an easy and flat one mile trail.  However, I still complained the ENTIRE way to my hiking companion about the humidity, the bugs, the sand, the spider webs, and how I wanted to go home soon.  We got to the area and my irritable disposition gave way to complete awes. The spring was the blueish blue I had ever seen and I could not believe what my eyes had seen!  There is essentially a giant hole in the ground, that is actually a cave shaft,  and one can see all the way to the bottom (except during high rain and snow melt).  There is no slight decline, just straight down with beautiful sights of watercress and moss.

Blue Spring is located 12 miles east of Eminence on HWY 106

Cowards Hollow (finally!)

Finally, the place that has haunted my dreams and taunted me in my waking hour has been found.  Cowards Hollow Natural Area has been an obsession since the beginning of winter and I, because of a friend who found the cascade, got to see it in person in early March.  I have been told, erroneously, that I would not be impressed once I saw the waterfall with my own eyes.  I kept telling myself that I wanted to see if even if I would not be impressed.  " I want to find it, no matter what it looks like and what it doesn't" I kept saying to myself. 

 The directions on the Mark Twain National Forest site are way off and the road it is near is unmarked and impassable for almost all automobiles.  I kept verbally berating myself for not finding it sooner because I was soooo close so many times.  The path is muddy and one must walk through the forest to avoid splashing ankle deep in water (the warmer months might be better for the path but waterfalls are best in spring and fall).  The trail is uneventful, although I did see a limb with fungi growing beautifully all over (picture is on your left).  I kept hearing the cascade in my head and kept looking around to see some kind of natural sign that I was near the natural area. 

I could hear the flow of the waterfall and I had a peculiar feeling in the pit of my stomach.  The feeling was child like excitement and that little feeling everyone has when an obsession becomes reality (a little bid sad that the journey is over).  The 20 ft chert cliffs caught my eye and I looked left and saw the creek fed waterfall cascading downward into the creek.  The chert walls definitely add a mystique to the place and a cave nearby magnifies the beauty of the natural area.  Most waterfalls come from strong bodies of water like fast moving rivers.  This fall was fed by a creek, which is cool because you can walk across the top and look down to the bottom with ease. 

I took a seat at the top near the water and just took it all in.  I did not want to blink, I did not want to move, and I definitely did not want to leave.  The tranquility, the ambiance, and air around me made me feel like an adventurer, like an explorer that braved the deadly sea to find new land.  Then, I remembered the story that this place was named Cowards Hollow because people during the Civil War and (later) prohibition hid here from the law.  Looking around at the beauty, I wondered what it must have been like to hide here during such tumultuous times.  No matter the war whether it be a real battle, a lawless act, or a kid in search of the meaning of life......Cowards Hollow is a magical place.  

A Rant about the State of Missouri's Parks

Missouri State Parks are broke.  That is the answer I receive when I ask any question the state park system in the state.  " Why isn't there any representation here at the agriculture expo from the parks (while almost every type of state agency is represented in some form or fashion)?  The response is " they're broke!".

I visited a park on a warm day and saw many people exploring and hiking.  Where was a park ranger to explain them about the wonders of the place, or that they were standing near a state treasure that could give any other park ANYWHERE in the world a run for it's proverbial money?  Not to be found.  By the way, the restrooms were locked even though over 30 people were there at the 30 minute period that I was there.

Winter, even if we don't like to admit it, makes up a good chunk of our year.   It is disappointing to see Missouri State Parks closed during winter months while Ohio, a cold place no matter the area of the state, is open for business and eager to bring the great outdoor to its visitors.   Arkansas, a state that shares similar weather with southern Missouri, also has most of its state parks open during the colder months and guess what?  People actually visit.  They are on twitter, they are on facebook, and they are *gasp* at the state parks.

There is a reason why they are broke.  Beautiful and majestic places in this state and they are broke......there is a reason but I seriously doubt the state government, especially the governor, will ever realize.

-darrinmarcus

Tire Dumping in Our National Forest

Southeast Missouri has been battling illegal dumping in state parks, natural areas, and the Mark Twain National Forest for a very long time.  Unfortunately, state officials have just now started to ramp up serious efforts to address and solve this problem (in my opinion).   Below are quotes from the Southeast Missourian Newspaper in Cape Girardeau, Missouri.  Link: SEMISSOURIAN  

POPLAR BLUFF, Mo. -- Officials with the Mark Twain National Forest are continuing their battle against illegal tire dumping on forest lands across Southeast Missouri, the Daily American Republic newspaper reported.

The problem of tire dumping has "been going on for decades," said Trombley, and Bond believes it may be getting worse. "We noticed in the last couple of years more and more tires were being dumped," Bond said.

Holding out Hope for the Hollow

There is a natural area in Carter County, Missouri that haunts my dreams and taunts me in my waking hour.   Cowards Hollow Natural Area in Mark Twain National Forest, near Van Buren has been calling out my name for several months.  I have studied road maps, looked at topographical maps, and asked locals for information.  All have been futile.   I made a second attempt to find this mysterious place with a friend who knows the area and has been to Coward's Hollow a few times, but it was a long time ago and he went with his father.

We followed directions and walked down a a nearly impassable log road under a power line and found what looked like a trail.  Unfortunately, this trail ceased and we decided to follow a creek bed.  Surely, we thought, it would lead us to the natural area and waterfall.  We walked through the forest listening for sounds of cascading water and looking for rock formations that are indicative to the Hollow.  Winchester, my friend, thought it would be found across the creek and over a steep ridge.  So we delicately walked across large creek rocks sticking over the waterline and trekked up and over the huge ridge.  Nothing!  We had been hiking for 2-3 miles through dense forest, water, and ridge.  Reluctantly, we decided to cease our search and head for other sights.

Guest Blog: Big Oak Tree State Park

I am a dreamer, always have been, guess I always will be.  My dreams are so big that I have to take them to wide open spaces sometimes and set them free so I can return to my everyday duties of Christian, mother, friend and employee.  One of my favorite pastimes is to discover new places to give my dreams the room they need to grow; I was lucky enough by happenstance to discover Big Oak Tree State Park in Mississippi County, Missouri. 

 Because we dreamers, never know when dreams will strike we have to be on the lookout, while driving for work related business one day, I saw a sign pointing to Big Oak Tree State Park. Being my lunch hour I let my “what the heck” attitude steer my vehicle in that direction.  I pulled up and noticed as you would guess some well, big oaks.  It was perfect for me, just enough openness to get lost in, just enough green lushness to remain interested and just enough not “off the beaten trail” to stay grounded.

For those of you interested in things less surreal and more earthy…Big Oak Tree State Park has a lot to offer.  If you’d like a look at what our dear state of Missouri, untouched by our modern intrusions might have looked liked, take a look here.  There is swamp, there are HUGE oak trees (again hence the name of the park), in fact the website http://www.mostateparks.com/bigoak.htm, says five of the trees there qualify as state champions, impressive eh?

The park also offers a boardwalk that winds its way through much of the park, offering you a view of the historic “swampy” area and giving you a quite fascinating view of several of our feathered friends.  Please do not ask me what kind of birds I saw there, they were colorful and they had feathers, I’m a therapist, I can only tell you about my emotions upon seeing them.

There is also an event at the park every September called Living History Day. This event is fascinating to me, enough so that I bear the sometimes over humidified weather and pack up my 4 kiddos ranging in ages from 3 to 11 and purposely take them there.  At this event, you can watch demonstrations of old-time skills such as loom weaving, trapping, spinning and flintknapping and enjoy some mighty fine catfish I might add.

After discovering Big Oak Tree State Park, I have made several (okay, 50 or more) trips back to the park to dream, think, scream, and even do paper work.  It is a place of peace and calm for me and isn’t too far away to be a place of tranquility for you.  Maybe I’ll see you there. -JellieBraden

JellieBraden is a native Missourian, super mom, therapist extraordinaire, and frequent visitor to Big Oak Tree State Park

Editor's Note: The park picture was taken from Wikimedia Commons.   

East Prairie Veterans Memorial

East Prairie, Missouri is a charming town full of surprises, from swamps to murals and from Native American mounds to war memorials.  One expects war memorials in our nation's capital.   We, as a people, expect slabs of marble honoring the brave sacrifices of our men and women near the seat of government.  Likewise, we have come to expect monuments in our respective state capitals because every state has lost  native sons and daughters in in the pursuit of our national defense.  However, I did not expect a war memorial to be situated in a small town in Mississippi County, Missouri.  

If I could describe this veterans memorial in one word other than patriotic,  it would be goosebumps.  There are several bricks with names near the center of the memorial.  The names are those who died in combat in different theaters of war, from World War II to Vietnam.  These men were from the East Prairie area and the bricks remind people of the ultimate sacrifice that military men and women make for their country.

Allred Lake

My father in law often talks about a place that renews his faith in the world around him.  There is a natural area that has spoken to his heart and allowed him to leave his woes with the Cypress and Tupelo Trees.  Indeed, there is something magical and calming about Allred Lake Natural Area in Butler County.  It is as if the 500 year old trees endow the curious wonderer with their endless wisdom and sagacious nature.

ALLRED LAKE Natural Area near Neelyville (the locals call the area East of Neelyville "Coon Island)" is owned and administered by the Missouri Conservation Department.  The area is important because it is one of the last remaining bottom-land swamps in Missouri and arguably one of the best examples, save Mingo in Puxico.   Cypress trees and swamp use to dominate the landscape of Southeast Missouri from the boot heel to the foothills of the Ozarks.  Now, farm land is ubiquitous and swamps have become a tiny fraction of area.

To the untrained eye, this natural area seems like a scary and unattractive place.  Many people remark that beauty is gently rolling hills, mountains in the distance, or ocean waves crashing into seashores.  Swamps have long been the Rodney Dangerfield of the natural area because they "get no respect".   However, if you think beyond the normal confines of beauty and see what the swamp holds in its boundaries. ALLRED LAKE not only has one of the few concentration of swamp trees, but it also houses several endangered species of fish such as the Taillight Shiner and Swamp Darter.

Now I understand why this place is my father in law's special thinking place.  The lake, ringed by swamp trees, is a subdued place with quiet awe and magical history.  The boardwalk does more than take you a few feet from the shore.  It takes you to an alter of nature guided by the towering cypress and dedicated to the land that was swamp-east, Missouri.   As a resident of Southeast Missouri,  I look at this natural area as proof that swamp water runs through the very fabric of who we are and where have come from.


Suggested Reading/Viewing

allred lake summary page

Missouri Department of Conservation 

Sikeston

    In my travels, Sikeston Missouri has never been a true destination.  I usually zip pass the town on my way to Cape Girardeau, or stop briefly at a gas station or restaurant near the exit for Highway 60 East.  My excuse for passing the town has always been that Cape Girardeau has culture, history, and a beautiful downtown while Sikeston has box stores, outlet malls, and factories.  I was right about the box stores and factories, but I was wrong in thinking that was all Sikeston had to offer a traveler.  While it lacks the river culture of Cape Girardeau, it certainly has a charming downtown, historic buildings, and it's unique brand of culture.

     The city has done a lot of beautification in the downtown area by widening sidewalks, adding attractive street lamps, and encouraging public murals on old brick buildings.   There is also a movement to add real business to the downtown area, something that is not strong in any downtown except Cape Girardeau.   It is refreshing to see "mom and pop" stores lining sidewalks and not major highways.  These stores represent real Americana at it's absolute finest because they are owned by ordinary people.  Besides, I did not see any big box retail stores near such beautiful murals.

     There are three murals in the downtown area and all are practically on the same street.  The biggest mural represents the history and culture of the greater Sikeston area, from rodeos to swamplands and air force bases to throwed rolls.  It is amazing that a public mural can say so much about a town without using a single word.  In one glance, a person can see some of the fabric that makes up Sikeston, Missouri. 

Then there are the ionic Greek style columns that once belonged to a church.  Maybe it's silly, but I really enjoy looking at Greek style architecture and will travel long distances just to see regal looking columns.  I struggled to find these columns at first but an older lady gave me really good directions by saying " just take that street over yonder and go all the way down.....if you keep going, you'll smack 'em". 

Winter Hiking

These are the reasons why I enjoy hiking during the winter months.

1) NO TICKS! Yes, I can handle bees, snakes, spider webs, and poison ivy.  However, I hold ticks with great contempt.

2) No people.  I'm a sociable person but I hike to get away from the world.  Besides, I want to scream when someone is hiking on a trail while talking on their cell phone the entire time.

3) Free (mostly).  Fee access points are rarely in operation during December-February.

4) Scenic views.  Most Missouri bluff, hill, and mountain views are blocked my thick plant growth during the summer and fall months.  It is a pleasant experience to look down at t he rivers and valleys of SE MO.

5) Naked Trees.  You simply do not realize how massive some trees are until you see them sans leaves.

6) No heat.  You can always dress in layers to stay warm during a winter hike, but it's nearly impossible to stay cool during summer months.

7) Crows.  Yes, summertime does bring the beautiful sounds of song birds, but there is something hauntingly beautiful about crows and their caws.

8) Rock formations.  I can better observe rock formations when the grass and growth have died back.  There is something enchanting about large boulders and smaller rocks in a forest.

9 Green!  During summer, most spring fed rivers and lakes are bluish in color, while winter months brings the most beautiful green hue to the waters

10 Snow.  Snow is beautiful and it is a remarkable to sight to see mother nature cloaked in a winter wonderland.

Bonus reason: It's rarely that cold in Southeast Missouri.  There are people all over the world from Vermont to Finland who are out and about during winter months, why not us Missourians?

What are your reasons for winter hikes?

You Cannot Take This Park for Granite

Elephant Rock State Park is one of the top talked about and respected parks in Missouri.  It seems every google search for a Missouri park  shows Elephant Rock near the top of list, but I did not understand why until recently.  I went to Missouri's Arcadia Valley to visit Tom Sauk Mountain and make a quick stop nearby to see the elephant rocks.  To be honest, I only wanted to visit because it was close to  other stops and not because I had any interest in seeing a bunch of over sized rock formations. However, it did not take long to appreciate the raw beauty of these geological wonders and to name the park as one of my favorite Missouri places.   
                                                                                     

Exploration is never just about seeing with one's eyes.  It is feeling textures, smelling the scents and aromas, hearing what is around (or what is not there), and occasionally tasting.   While climbing over giant granite rock in the park, I had the opportunity to walk the Braille Trail, which is the first of its kind in Missouri (Braille picture to your right belongs to Missouri State Parks website).   Visually impaired visitors can follow a rope to various points of interest and knots let them know of upcoming signs to read.  One sign tells the visitor to turn around directly behind them, kneel down, and feel the two holes drilled in a small rock.  Another sign tells the visitor to feel the bark texture of two different trees on the right and left, something that everyone should do while in a park.

Elephant Rocks

Suggested Reading:

Elephant Rock State Park

Google Images