Cowards Hollow (finally!)

Finally, the place that has haunted my dreams and taunted me in my waking hour has been found.  Cowards Hollow Natural Area has been an obsession since the beginning of winter and I, because of a friend who found the cascade, got to see it in person in early March.  I have been told, erroneously, that I would not be impressed once I saw the waterfall with my own eyes.  I kept telling myself that I wanted to see if even if I would not be impressed.  " I want to find it, no matter what it looks like and what it doesn't" I kept saying to myself. 

 The directions on the Mark Twain National Forest site are way off and the road it is near is unmarked and impassable for almost all automobiles.  I kept verbally berating myself for not finding it sooner because I was soooo close so many times.  The path is muddy and one must walk through the forest to avoid splashing ankle deep in water (the warmer months might be better for the path but waterfalls are best in spring and fall).  The trail is uneventful, although I did see a limb with fungi growing beautifully all over (picture is on your left).  I kept hearing the cascade in my head and kept looking around to see some kind of natural sign that I was near the natural area. 

I could hear the flow of the waterfall and I had a peculiar feeling in the pit of my stomach.  The feeling was child like excitement and that little feeling everyone has when an obsession becomes reality (a little bid sad that the journey is over).  The 20 ft chert cliffs caught my eye and I looked left and saw the creek fed waterfall cascading downward into the creek.  The chert walls definitely add a mystique to the place and a cave nearby magnifies the beauty of the natural area.  Most waterfalls come from strong bodies of water like fast moving rivers.  This fall was fed by a creek, which is cool because you can walk across the top and look down to the bottom with ease. 

I took a seat at the top near the water and just took it all in.  I did not want to blink, I did not want to move, and I definitely did not want to leave.  The tranquility, the ambiance, and air around me made me feel like an adventurer, like an explorer that braved the deadly sea to find new land.  Then, I remembered the story that this place was named Cowards Hollow because people during the Civil War and (later) prohibition hid here from the law.  Looking around at the beauty, I wondered what it must have been like to hide here during such tumultuous times.  No matter the war whether it be a real battle, a lawless act, or a kid in search of the meaning of life......Cowards Hollow is a magical place.  

A Rant about the State of Missouri's Parks

Missouri State Parks are broke.  That is the answer I receive when I ask any question the state park system in the state.  " Why isn't there any representation here at the agriculture expo from the parks (while almost every type of state agency is represented in some form or fashion)?  The response is " they're broke!".

I visited a park on a warm day and saw many people exploring and hiking.  Where was a park ranger to explain them about the wonders of the place, or that they were standing near a state treasure that could give any other park ANYWHERE in the world a run for it's proverbial money?  Not to be found.  By the way, the restrooms were locked even though over 30 people were there at the 30 minute period that I was there.

Winter, even if we don't like to admit it, makes up a good chunk of our year.   It is disappointing to see Missouri State Parks closed during winter months while Ohio, a cold place no matter the area of the state, is open for business and eager to bring the great outdoor to its visitors.   Arkansas, a state that shares similar weather with southern Missouri, also has most of its state parks open during the colder months and guess what?  People actually visit.  They are on twitter, they are on facebook, and they are *gasp* at the state parks.

There is a reason why they are broke.  Beautiful and majestic places in this state and they are broke......there is a reason but I seriously doubt the state government, especially the governor, will ever realize.

-darrinmarcus

Tire Dumping in Our National Forest

Southeast Missouri has been battling illegal dumping in state parks, natural areas, and the Mark Twain National Forest for a very long time.  Unfortunately, state officials have just now started to ramp up serious efforts to address and solve this problem (in my opinion).   Below are quotes from the Southeast Missourian Newspaper in Cape Girardeau, Missouri.  Link: SEMISSOURIAN  

POPLAR BLUFF, Mo. -- Officials with the Mark Twain National Forest are continuing their battle against illegal tire dumping on forest lands across Southeast Missouri, the Daily American Republic newspaper reported.

The problem of tire dumping has "been going on for decades," said Trombley, and Bond believes it may be getting worse. "We noticed in the last couple of years more and more tires were being dumped," Bond said.

Holding out Hope for the Hollow

There is a natural area in Carter County, Missouri that haunts my dreams and taunts me in my waking hour.   Cowards Hollow Natural Area in Mark Twain National Forest, near Van Buren has been calling out my name for several months.  I have studied road maps, looked at topographical maps, and asked locals for information.  All have been futile.   I made a second attempt to find this mysterious place with a friend who knows the area and has been to Coward's Hollow a few times, but it was a long time ago and he went with his father.

We followed directions and walked down a a nearly impassable log road under a power line and found what looked like a trail.  Unfortunately, this trail ceased and we decided to follow a creek bed.  Surely, we thought, it would lead us to the natural area and waterfall.  We walked through the forest listening for sounds of cascading water and looking for rock formations that are indicative to the Hollow.  Winchester, my friend, thought it would be found across the creek and over a steep ridge.  So we delicately walked across large creek rocks sticking over the waterline and trekked up and over the huge ridge.  Nothing!  We had been hiking for 2-3 miles through dense forest, water, and ridge.  Reluctantly, we decided to cease our search and head for other sights.

Guest Blog: Big Oak Tree State Park

I am a dreamer, always have been, guess I always will be.  My dreams are so big that I have to take them to wide open spaces sometimes and set them free so I can return to my everyday duties of Christian, mother, friend and employee.  One of my favorite pastimes is to discover new places to give my dreams the room they need to grow; I was lucky enough by happenstance to discover Big Oak Tree State Park in Mississippi County, Missouri. 

 Because we dreamers, never know when dreams will strike we have to be on the lookout, while driving for work related business one day, I saw a sign pointing to Big Oak Tree State Park. Being my lunch hour I let my “what the heck” attitude steer my vehicle in that direction.  I pulled up and noticed as you would guess some well, big oaks.  It was perfect for me, just enough openness to get lost in, just enough green lushness to remain interested and just enough not “off the beaten trail” to stay grounded.

For those of you interested in things less surreal and more earthy…Big Oak Tree State Park has a lot to offer.  If you’d like a look at what our dear state of Missouri, untouched by our modern intrusions might have looked liked, take a look here.  There is swamp, there are HUGE oak trees (again hence the name of the park), in fact the website http://www.mostateparks.com/bigoak.htm, says five of the trees there qualify as state champions, impressive eh?

The park also offers a boardwalk that winds its way through much of the park, offering you a view of the historic “swampy” area and giving you a quite fascinating view of several of our feathered friends.  Please do not ask me what kind of birds I saw there, they were colorful and they had feathers, I’m a therapist, I can only tell you about my emotions upon seeing them.

There is also an event at the park every September called Living History Day. This event is fascinating to me, enough so that I bear the sometimes over humidified weather and pack up my 4 kiddos ranging in ages from 3 to 11 and purposely take them there.  At this event, you can watch demonstrations of old-time skills such as loom weaving, trapping, spinning and flintknapping and enjoy some mighty fine catfish I might add.

After discovering Big Oak Tree State Park, I have made several (okay, 50 or more) trips back to the park to dream, think, scream, and even do paper work.  It is a place of peace and calm for me and isn’t too far away to be a place of tranquility for you.  Maybe I’ll see you there. -JellieBraden

JellieBraden is a native Missourian, super mom, therapist extraordinaire, and frequent visitor to Big Oak Tree State Park

Editor's Note: The park picture was taken from Wikimedia Commons.   

East Prairie Veterans Memorial

East Prairie, Missouri is a charming town full of surprises, from swamps to murals and from Native American mounds to war memorials.  One expects war memorials in our nation's capital.   We, as a people, expect slabs of marble honoring the brave sacrifices of our men and women near the seat of government.  Likewise, we have come to expect monuments in our respective state capitals because every state has lost  native sons and daughters in in the pursuit of our national defense.  However, I did not expect a war memorial to be situated in a small town in Mississippi County, Missouri.  

If I could describe this veterans memorial in one word other than patriotic,  it would be goosebumps.  There are several bricks with names near the center of the memorial.  The names are those who died in combat in different theaters of war, from World War II to Vietnam.  These men were from the East Prairie area and the bricks remind people of the ultimate sacrifice that military men and women make for their country.

Allred Lake

My father in law often talks about a place that renews his faith in the world around him.  There is a natural area that has spoken to his heart and allowed him to leave his woes with the Cypress and Tupelo Trees.  Indeed, there is something magical and calming about Allred Lake Natural Area in Butler County.  It is as if the 500 year old trees endow the curious wonderer with their endless wisdom and sagacious nature.

ALLRED LAKE Natural Area near Neelyville (the locals call the area East of Neelyville "Coon Island)" is owned and administered by the Missouri Conservation Department.  The area is important because it is one of the last remaining bottom-land swamps in Missouri and arguably one of the best examples, save Mingo in Puxico.   Cypress trees and swamp use to dominate the landscape of Southeast Missouri from the boot heel to the foothills of the Ozarks.  Now, farm land is ubiquitous and swamps have become a tiny fraction of area.

To the untrained eye, this natural area seems like a scary and unattractive place.  Many people remark that beauty is gently rolling hills, mountains in the distance, or ocean waves crashing into seashores.  Swamps have long been the Rodney Dangerfield of the natural area because they "get no respect".   However, if you think beyond the normal confines of beauty and see what the swamp holds in its boundaries. ALLRED LAKE not only has one of the few concentration of swamp trees, but it also houses several endangered species of fish such as the Taillight Shiner and Swamp Darter.

Now I understand why this place is my father in law's special thinking place.  The lake, ringed by swamp trees, is a subdued place with quiet awe and magical history.  The boardwalk does more than take you a few feet from the shore.  It takes you to an alter of nature guided by the towering cypress and dedicated to the land that was swamp-east, Missouri.   As a resident of Southeast Missouri,  I look at this natural area as proof that swamp water runs through the very fabric of who we are and where have come from.


Suggested Reading/Viewing

allred lake summary page

Missouri Department of Conservation 

Sikeston

    In my travels, Sikeston Missouri has never been a true destination.  I usually zip pass the town on my way to Cape Girardeau, or stop briefly at a gas station or restaurant near the exit for Highway 60 East.  My excuse for passing the town has always been that Cape Girardeau has culture, history, and a beautiful downtown while Sikeston has box stores, outlet malls, and factories.  I was right about the box stores and factories, but I was wrong in thinking that was all Sikeston had to offer a traveler.  While it lacks the river culture of Cape Girardeau, it certainly has a charming downtown, historic buildings, and it's unique brand of culture.

     The city has done a lot of beautification in the downtown area by widening sidewalks, adding attractive street lamps, and encouraging public murals on old brick buildings.   There is also a movement to add real business to the downtown area, something that is not strong in any downtown except Cape Girardeau.   It is refreshing to see "mom and pop" stores lining sidewalks and not major highways.  These stores represent real Americana at it's absolute finest because they are owned by ordinary people.  Besides, I did not see any big box retail stores near such beautiful murals.

     There are three murals in the downtown area and all are practically on the same street.  The biggest mural represents the history and culture of the greater Sikeston area, from rodeos to swamplands and air force bases to throwed rolls.  It is amazing that a public mural can say so much about a town without using a single word.  In one glance, a person can see some of the fabric that makes up Sikeston, Missouri. 

Then there are the ionic Greek style columns that once belonged to a church.  Maybe it's silly, but I really enjoy looking at Greek style architecture and will travel long distances just to see regal looking columns.  I struggled to find these columns at first but an older lady gave me really good directions by saying " just take that street over yonder and go all the way down.....if you keep going, you'll smack 'em".